To a Motu, Tuamotus

Hello from Raroia Atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago of French Polynesia! We’ve been here, anchored in the exact same spot, for two weeks now, after a 3.5 day passage from the Marquesas. We have been really soaking in the slower pace of life and not having to move–after the really hard part, we are enjoying the easier part (I won’t call it easy, but it sure is easier than passage-making). We are in the water every day, free diving and snorkeling, seeing all of the wonders of the underground reef and coral castles and fishies and octopuses and remora and sharks. The reef here is remarkable and unspoiled and is really a dream to be able to be here and feel awe and wonder every day.

There are only 440 atolls in the world (!) — they are low-lying islands made of coral that surround a lagoon, and most are concentrated in the Pacific Ocean. So we are protected from the waves of the entire Pacific by the low motus (islands) that surround the lagoon where we are anchored. And the small, shallow passes into the ocean between the motus provide awesome snorkeling, and the motus themselves are great places to watch the sunset, have beach BBQs with other boats, and feel solid ground once in awhile.

I will also say that the community of sailors is a fast-friends kind of community. We were the only boat here in this anchorage for about four days, then some other boats come in, you have them over or they have you over for sundowners (drinks), they leave and pass along information about next stops, and you don’t know whether you’ll see them on down the watery road or not but it does make for lots of fun and it’s fascinating to meet people from all over.

I’ll let the photos tell the story of what we’ve been getting up to for the past few weeks!

Squalls bring rainbows (and sometimes sleepless nights!)
A future palm tree, with a little luck!
Baby reef shark in the shallows — we’ve seen SO many reef sharks here, we love them!
Me and Horizon there in the background!
A cast of hermit crabs
Long walk on the beach
Best apero, reminding of us of wonderful memories with dear friends back home in Cali
Dinghy at sunset with Horizon in the background!
The color palette is wondrous
The ladies of Horizon, Traveller IV, Terrapin, and Trinity having a sundowner together
New and fast friends (with GREAT apps too!)
Cutting a coconut is a feat better achieved on land rather than on boat — next time! I did make coconut milk with the immersion blender and put the leftover coconut bits into rice — yum.
Serious fire prep
A veritable feast of spinach artichoke dip, homemade naan and hummus, homemade veggie burgers with all the fixins, Greek rice and brownies! With fellow Ocean Posse boats Traveller IV and Satori.
Sunrise over the atoll

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9 Comments

  1. Steph and Conor — these photos are WONDROUS; such an amazing corner of the world to explore (and I can’t think of atolls without thinking of Darwin, especially now that things like “science” and “evolution” are contested…). So glad you’re slowing down, enjoying some sundowners, and making fast friends. xoxoxo scelise

  2. WOW. What a joy to see your faces and hear this update – what a life you are living right now! Loving every word and picture of sharks and crabs and friends. And love seeing Scribe pet nat in the sand!

  3. Love to see you reaping the rewards of all your hard work. Love you seeing this update. And omg the water looks DIVINE.

  4. Wow! The color of that water is gorgeous and you both look like you’re “in your happy place.” I love reading these updates and always learn something new. Sending love from the desert. xoxo

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