Beginning Again

A lot has happened since the last time I wrote on the blog, and it all needed time to simmer before an update. This sailing adventure continues — though not in the way either of us thought it would.

After a few months of boat projects in Tahiti and a rather unexpected trip back home to the states, Conor has decided to take an extended break from the boat. I am planning to continue sailing and living in French Polynesia on Horizon for now. This is a big shift from what we expected, and we are both doing what we need to do for ourselves and for each other. While the future is unknown — in sailing, it’s always unknown! Our friend Peter says “plans are written in the sand at low tide” — we’re figuring ourselves out and I hope we’ll find our way back to one another stronger than ever, wherever and whenever the time is right for that. Please send love through the universe to both Conor and I.

So — you’ll hear from me for now on these Sea Witch Diaries, and I’m inviting women on board to sail with me (is this you? Let me know! :). All I need to know is the next right step, and the path will unfold that way.

I want to celebrate with you a pretty incredible moment of me stepping into captaining Horizon — my dear and adventurous friend Abi came to visit last week without any sailing experience, and she and I sailed to Moorea together, a distance of about 20 miles from Tahiti.

Moorea at sunset from Tahiti

Abi and I had a glorious sail in light winds to Moorea under jib alone, had two humpback whales say hello on the way, and anchored in Paopao, also known as Cook’s Bay, for the week. This was my first time setting the anchor and snubber by myself (ok, this was my first time doing many things on the boat by myself!), and while the wind blew us in circles all week, Horizon stayed in the same spot on the anchor watch and didn’t go on any walkabouts, so that’s excellent.

Girl boat energy

Abi and I had so much fun together — we went diving, had a 9’ lemon shark swim at us, hung out with verrrry slowly blinking turtles on the reef, went to the beach, had reading days, dinghied to happy hour — it was so soul nourishing to have a good friend here during this particular moment in life. I also could not stop smiling to be back on anchor after months in the marina doing boat projects. There is really nothing like jumping in the water from your boat.

It was a challenging sail back to Tahiti, upwind in bigger swells, and Horizon and I handled it well and even docked in 15 knots of wind (this is no easy feat for those not in the know). Super grateful to Abi for being game to come across the world to sail with me.

I’m now back in Tahiti at the marina, continuing to do boat projects, doing freelance work with amazing humans, having fun with boat neighbor Noelene on SV Onyx, and learning to hold myself through this moment. Next crew arrives in October for more sailing.

Noelene and I visit the Museum of Tahiti and her Islands

I have learned so much and will continue to learn so much, and I plan to keep writing. Your comments, texts and emails (and IRL hugs for those I’ve gotten to see recently!) mean so much to me.

And since we all need moments of wonder and awe to bring ourselves back into the universe, I’ll leave you with an unforgettable moment of swimming with whales in Moorea:

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20 Comments

  1. I think I must be a whale as I float just like those whales especially the second one!!! Fun times ahead Steph for us to share more of. xx

  2. Wow! What an incredible adventure. Thanks for sharing! Your presence through the hard moments and uncertainty is truly inspiring. Sending big love to you for whatever life throws at you next!

  3. Hey Hey Sea Witch. I’ve been reading a lot about witches recently, and in fact I think I may have a couple living on my street! I bet there are some awesome practical magic vibes in Tahiti? Big hugs from Princeton.

    • Very here for this coven of witches you’re finding yourself among 🪄🪄🪄 lots of magic in the ocean here, Moorea seems far more witchy than Tahiti from a land perspective so far.

  4. Always thinking about you and wishing you joy, strength and just the right amount of wind. 😉 You’re a badass and an inspiration. And holy whales!! That video is so amazing I can’t even imagine being in the water with them and hearing their songs firsthand. A sign from Mother Nature that you’re in the right place. 🩵

  5. So late to comment, but I’m sending you and Conor love! I also love the Sea Witches title–I’m thinking of doing a Sea Witches paddle this weekend myself.

  6. Bonjour from France, from the landlocked Loire Valley! We are thinking of you, fearless captain! Keep on enjoying this great adventure you’ve begun. Love your videos and pix! And is the French spoken in the South Pacific the same as here in Europe? Guessing it’s tres different!

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