Island Idling

We haven’t moved from our anchoring spot from two and a half weeks ago when we first arrived and were tired and delirious from our crossing. We’ve somehow managed to do a lot and nothing at all in the time that has ensued.

There was a *lot* of calming down after the crossing that needed to happen for our bodies and minds and nervous systems. We took the time we needed to do that, hence the long time between posts.

We’ve enjoyed simple and delightful things like pains au chocolat for breakfast (chocolate-filled croissants) at the dockside le snack, fresh pamplemousse (grapefruit) that is so sweet it doesn’t need even a lick of sugar, walks across town, a hike to an old tohua, which is an open-air gathering site, happy hours with new and fast friends also on boats, dunks in the water multiple times a day, and more. We also have done the necessaries like refueling and fixing a few things that had broken along the way.

On islands, logistics are of utmost importance. There are two supply ships that come per month, one that runs on time and is half cruise ship (you leave from Tahiti to visit several islands including Nuku Hiva) and half supply ship called the Aranui 5. The other supply ship is locally known as “the ghost ship” or “le bateau fantôme” because *maybe* it will come the Tuesday when it is scheduled in port, but maybe it won’t. The small markets are filled with more-than-usual fresh goods the days the supply ships come in and everyone is waiting on their deliveries that they ordered two weeks to a month ago.

We took a day to rent a car and explore the island — we are seeing the island during its peak “green” season since it’s the rainy season, with everything verdant and exploding with life.

An absolute highlight was taking a ukulele lesson from Kaha, a talented musician who teaches about 40 students of ukulele and guitar on the island. Marquesan music is bright and warm and has a rhythm and style all its own — I have loved learning it a little. After the lesson, we then got invited to a “bringue party” which means a potluck on the beach along with a uke/guitar/drum jam session. There were about 20 adults that jammed and sang together after eating delicious food underneath the shade of a hibiscus tree where flowers kept falling onto the table, while all the kids played in the ocean. I didn’t take any photos but that memory of a magical afternoon of music and camaraderie will stay in my head and heart.

We’re ready to get to clear water, and most of the other Marquesan islands are upwind from us with (more) rolly anchorages and murky water from all the runoff from such steep and dramatic mountains. Onto the Tuamotus! Very thankful to Nuku Hiva as our first landing spot.